Innovations, driven by the demand for sustainable and ethical beauty worldwide, are currently reshaping the African hair extensions industry, like its counterparts in other regions. This has created a market for safer, eco-friendly hair extension alternatives.
The African hair extension market is a profitable one that teems with producers, entrepreneurs, and retailers catering to an ever-growing consumer base. Led by countries like Nigeria and South Africa, the Middle East and Africa hair extension market was valued at $130.3 million in 2024 and is projected to grow at 7.9% annually till 2031, outpacing Latin America. This is steered by increasingly experimental and diverse style preferences, an expanding middle class, urbanization, and digital influence, especially among the younger population with increasing disposable incomes.
For years, African consumers have relied on synthetic and more recently, human hair extensions to achieve preferred hairstyles. Synthetic hair is most affordable, with prominent producers on the continent. As the appeal for human hair broadens globally with a market expected to grow from $6.1 billion in 2024 to $9.3 billion in 2031, Africa is experiencing a corresponding rise in its demand. Its advent has popularized luxury in the hair grooming space as these extensions are widely considered high-end items. The businesses also especially thrive online, which is not surprising as the number of African online shoppers is rising, and expected to reach 518 million in 2025.
The global trend of sustainable beauty is spreading to African consumers. More importantly, it explains why concerns over questionable hair production practices and their environmental impacts are gaining attention. This was behind the relaunch in 2024 of Natural Girl, a Nigeria-based wig brand, making it a key player with its scientifically engineered lab-made hair. “Consumer education is already growing as more people ask questions and seek better options. For example, a major factor in our (re)launch was the demand from consumers who had been looking for exactly what we offer. Finding a brand that met their needs was a game-changer,” Oluremi Martins, the brand’s founder, tells BeautyMatter.
Traditional synthetic hair made from plastics contains alarming levels of heavy metals like lead and hazardous pesticides. This exposes consumers to toxins and even carcinogens, which Black women are especially susceptible to, leading to health risks. At the same time, Africa’s weak waste disposal systems mean these nonbiodegradable extensions pile up in landfills, worsening environmental risks. The exorbitant pricing of human hair extensions and the exploitation of its donors also unsettle potential African buyers who value ethical production.
To tackle these issues on the continent, there has been an exploration of biodegradable materials to make eco-friendly extensions. Banana fibers are one of the most prominent. This has especially positioned Uganda, one of the world’s largest banana producers with about 75% of its farmers cultivating it, as a major player in the market. Companies and even national initiatives like Cheveux Organique, TexFad, and NARO’s Banluxe are leading the charge, engaging local artisans in creating scalp-friendly, sustainable alternatives. However, these Africa-based brands struggle with scaling production and distribution compared to global players like Rebundle, Ruka, and Nourie. They also face a common challenge about plant-based extensions, which is performance; these fibers don’t always behave like real hair. This spurred Natural Girl to extend this frontier with technology, introducing a lab-made synthetic strands that mimic real hair textures.
“I have done research with people who have worked with banana fibers and similar materials, looking at consumer feedback and industry insights. The main motivation for using these fibers is the ethical and sustainable angle—to avoid synthetic materials entirely. But right now, these organic options just don’t deliver the performance that end users actually want,” says Martins.
Originally launched in 2018, Natural Girl initially imported and styled synthetic and human hair wigs, enjoying huge success. Then, the brand transitioned to offer toxin-free, ethical alternatives that performed like real hair, which most consumers prefer. At the heart of Natural Girl’s innovation is Texture Science Labs, Nigeria’s first hair lab. Martins established it to create ReXI, the proprietary synthetic hair fiber that serves as the base hair of Natural Girl’s wigs.
Natural Girl wigs set a new standard by delivering the look and feel of real hair, something traditional synthetic wigs and plant-based sustainable extensions often lack. Formulated in the lab with ultrathin hair fibers, humectants, and a protein-infusion system, they retain a natural hair sheen, hold styles longer, and withstand heat styling. They are also an exceptional option because they’re crafted with hiperlon, the highest quality of synthetic fibers. “This is a new class of synthetic hair that combines the best of protein and synthetic fibers with our advanced process,” says Martins. “We didn't want to deliver an innovative product that people would fall in love with but wouldn't be able to use.”
In addition to these scientific compositions that nourish the scalp, the wigs are sanitized and lab-certified to be 99.9% bacteria-free and resistant. This aligns with the wave of health consciousness among Nigerian consumers. According to Statista, the Nigerian digital fitness and well-being market will generate a revenue of $292.20 million in 2025.
Through customer research, the brand discovered that consumers believe that wearing conventional synthetic wigs negatively impacts how their aesthetics and social status are viewed. This means they’ll always prefer an alternative that behaves like human hair. “Innovation has to align with consumer needs. For us, performance is key. We’ve learned that styles are everything, and that most customers don’t care about fiber composition—they just want hair that works, lasts, and is manageable. Regardless of how much they question certain materials, performance remains their top priority. It's important to listen to them and also see where they put their money.”
The accessible pricing of Natural Girl wigs makes them affordable alternatives and a must-have beauty product defining coolness for young women. The brand also runs a customer-first approach by blending consumer education and feedback implementation and designing styles that cater not only to African women but also appeal to women from any part of the world. This is one crucial way it has gained global expansion, which is important for African brands. “Our core audience is millennial and Gen Z women who love to try styles, glam looks, and trends they’ve seen online or enhance their aesthetic all without hassle or frequent salon visits. This is something women of all backgrounds can relate to,” Martins reveals. With consumer reviews in mind, the brand also designs lace attachment and wig caps suited for the comfort they offer.
To trump distribution challenges as a direct-to-consumer business, Natural Girl is redesigning the channel to include retail for more customer reach. This also involves offline sales. “We’ve noticed that when people see the hair in person, they have a better impression of it than online. As a company that started online, we’re strategizing how to bring that experience into real life,” Martins explains.
The future for Natural Girl is one where it continues to push boundaries through the beauty innovation and technology intersection of Texture Science Labs and ReXI. Its focus on merging wig performance, durability, and convenient styling through the pioneering lab-made hair already solidifies its position as a leader in Nigeria’s and Africa’s budding sustainable hair industry. It also sets an example for brands that might tap into the market on how to meet consumer needs, enhance their experiences, and scale without compromising core values. It doesn’t only clear a pathway to high-quality hairstyles but also drives diversity and innovation in Africa’s growing beauty industry.
